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Marion

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I would like to make a perfume using Neroli; however, I noticed that Auroma sells pure Neroli and a less expensive Neroli (I think 3% in Jojoba Oil). Which one will be best? Marian

Carolyn

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Hi Marian, Well, it would depend on what your perfume base is going to be. The most popular kind of perfume for personal use has traditionally been in the form of a solution of various fragrant compounds in alcohol, or aqueous alcohol as in toilet waters - eau de parfum, eau de toilette, aftershave balms etc. The fragrant compounds are dissolved in ethanol - at 10% and above for an 'extrait' and under 10% for an eau de toilette. (see breakdown below). If you're wanting to use the Neroli - or Jasmine, Rose or Chamomile for that matter - for inclusion in an ethanol or pure vodka-based perfume, then you would have to use the pure essential oil or absolute since the jojoba-based 3% blend wouldn't mix properly. If you read books like 'Perfumes, Splashes & Colognes' for example by Nancy M. Booth, you'lls ee that Jojoba fixed oil is used as a carrier oil in fragrance crafting. It does however, modify the evaporation and 'expansion' of the fragrance notes, and tends to 'hold back' the accords somewhat, in comparison to ethanol which helps to lift and expand the odorant molecules. However, the 3% essential oils or absolutes in jojoba would be perfect in this case. Just adjust your % concentration for the other essential oils you're blending accordingly. The ingredients you chose for your perfume are combined together with condiseration to their strength, odor persistence, and odor profile of course. Neroli oil can be included at up to 10% dilution in a perfume blending experiment according to David Williams. Generally as a rule of thumb - a perfume or extrait - w hich may contain up to 300 or so different elements - has a 15-30% concentration of odorant molecules - essential oils and/or fragrance compounds - in an alcohol base. Eu de Parfum has 8-15% in alcohol + distilled water. Eau de toilette has 4-8%. Eau de Cologne has 2 - 5%, and an Eau Fraiche has 1 - 3%. Hope this helps, Carolyn

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